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How To Match Your Grip With Wrist Conditions In The Golf Swing
There is no such thing as perfect wrist conditions through the golf swing for everyone. Meaning, how you put your hands on the club, whether they be in what we would term a weaker grip position, normal grip or stronger grip, not only change your wrist conditions immediately in terms of how they sit on the club, but also change what you need to do through the swing to manage the club face.
So, let’s dig into that a little bit and talk about what that means. If I have a neutral grip throughout my swing, that would mean I can have neutral wrist conditions. When I set my hands on the club, my left wrist with a neutral grip will be slightly extended, there’s a slight cup to it, and my right wrist is virtually flat, so slight cup and flat. If I have a neutral grip pattern, when I do my takeaway pieces my club face is square during my takeaway, it’s square at the top of my swing, square coming down and square on the way through.
If I start to go more towards a weak grip or strong grip some things change. Let’s start with a weak grip. When I put my left hand on the club in a weaker position, you’ll see the cup or the extension is out of my wrist and my wrist is already preset, essentially flat. If I did nothing different, the weaker grip wants to make my club face point more open. Meaning, if I got my hands and everything back to the same position as I did before with the normal grip, my club face would be too open. So with that, I need to do something to square the face. If you have a weak left grip, you need to bow your left wrist more and you need to supinate your left arm more.
Now the opposite is true if I have a very strong grip. My left wrist is very extended, my lead wrist and whole arm is turned more and my right hand is even past flat, like I’m doing a little forearm curl here and that has my club face square.
If you bow your left wrist and your grip is really strong, you’re going to probably have the clubface too tilted down during the downswing, which is going to lead to some dynamic loft and face to path issues. For the face to be squared, you’ll notice my left arm has almost no lead arm supination. My back of my left hand is pointed more towards the camera, I’m flat not bowed at all and the face is already square. So, with a stronger grip, I now don’t need to bow my left wrist at all. I can even get away with a slight cup or extension and I don’t need lead arm supination nearly as much with that.
That’s sort of what you need to get from this. If you have a normal grip, you want pretty flat with the left wrist, you want pretty normal with the right wrist, you want a normal amount of supination, whatever that is.
If I have a weaker grip, I need to bow my left wrist more bend my right wrist back more. I need more supination just to square the face.
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